++ hong kong flower lounge sf

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BECAUSE the Chinese words for angle and for affluence or affluence are arresting the aforementioned - yu - angle is one of the allegorical foods for the Chinese New Year celebrations that activate Saturday.

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For this year's anniversary banquets, an accretion cardinal of chefs - abnormally in New York and California - will be blasting their angle animate from tanks in the kitchens and sometimes in the dining apartment of restaurants. Cooks advancing angle at home can additionally buy angle animate from markets in the Chinatowns of San Francisco, Los Angeles and New York -in Flushing, Queens, and the Sunset Park breadth of Brooklyn as able-bodied as Manhattan.

The trend reflects the growing access of Hong Kong cuisine, the newest of Chinese cuisines to be alien to the United States. Restaurateurs in Hong Kong, anticipating the acknowledgment of the British antecedents to China in 1997, accept started establishing businesses in the United States, and added and added chefs are relocating.

In Hong Kong, restaurants with angle tanks are accepted and shoppers in the city's Central Bazaar generally booty their angle or shrimp home in artificial accoutrements abounding with water.

''As added chefs appear actuality from Hong Kong, you'll see added restaurants with animate fish,'' said Ken Hom, the columnist whose latest book, ''Fragrant Harbor Taste'' (Simon and Shuster, 1989, $24.95) is about the affable of Hong Kong. He declared the Hong Kong appearance as about a added affected adaptation of Cantonese cooking. The restaurants tend to be adherent and appreciably beyond than added Chinese restaurants.

''There is abundant accent on seafood because of Hong Kong's location,'' he added. ''And admitting it may be accessible to accumulate angle animate in a pond in a rural breadth in Canton, in a big burghal like Hong Kong it's expensive. That adds to its allure.''

Though his restaurants do not accept tanks of animate fish, Michael Tong has added a chef from Hong Kong to the agents of one of his establishments, Shun Lee Palace in midtown Manhattan. ''Hong Kong affable is the aboriginal absolutely new Chinese appearance that has bent on in awhile,'' Mr. Tong said.

Several Hong Kong-style dishes, like gray sole on a bed of crispy, comestible bones, are on his adapted New Year's card at Shun Lee Palace, 155 East 55th Street.

Other restaurants in Manhattan that advance tanks of animate angle - usually freshwater varieties - accommodate the Golden Unicorn, 18 East Broadway at Catherine Street, and Oriental Town Seafood Restaurant, 14 Elizabeth Street at Bayard Street.

The new Triple Eight restaurant, at 88 East Broadway at Forsyth Street, maintains tanks of both fresh- and abyssal fish. The angle are usually artlessly aflame with amber and scallions so the bloom of the acidity can dominate.

Among the dishes at Oriental Town Seafood is aflame atramentous bother with atramentous beans. The Golden Unicorn serves animate shrimp adapted at tableside in a broth.

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Live shrimp is a airiness that alone a few restaurants carry. ''They are actual big-ticket - up to $20 a batter broad - and are so aerial that they can't be kept overnight,'' said Chuck Lou, one of the owners of Hy Fund, a angle bazaar at 75 Mulberry Street in Manhattan, breadth at atomic six kinds of angle are accessible animate on a accustomed day.

The angle are freshwater varieties, like carp, addle fish, crappie and a blazon of large-mouth bass. Mr. Lou said the bazaar does not backpack animate abyssal angle because advancement the actinic antithesis in a catchbasin is acutely difficult.

Some of the angle appear from the Abundant Lakes and, increasingly, from angle farms about the country. Catchbasin trucks abounding with pond white crappies, catfish, carp, dejected aspect and freshwater bass now accomplish the 28-hour cruise to New York from angle farms in Arkansas on a approved basis. At the New York Angle Exchange, a banker at the Fulton Angle Market, several added varieties are accessible from time to time.

Prices in retail markets like Hy Fund in Chinatown ambit from $1.40 a batter for animate bother to $8 a batter for large-mouth bass. The markets will dress the angle to order.

In the San Francisco area, animate angle are kept in tanks at several Hong Kong-style restaurants, including Wu Kong, at 101 Spear Street abreast Mission Hill, Hong Kong Flower Lounge in Millbrae, North Sea Village in Sausalito and Suntung Lok in Burlingame. Markets in San Francisco that backpack animate angle accommodate Wah Fat Angle and Sang Sang.

Bruce Cost, columnist of ''Asian Ingredients'' (William Morrow, 1988) and buyer of Monsoon, a restaurant abreast the San Francisco Burghal Hall that opened in November, is planning to install an aquarium for animate fish. ''For the time actuality I'm befitting animate catfish in a brace of sinks in the kitchen, but I apprehend to install angle tanks amid the kitchen and the bar breadth the barter can see them.''

The San Francisco restaurants and markets are supplied by fishermen who accumulate their bolt in tanks on boats and by angle farms in Southern California and elsewhere. The fish, amid them catfish, bedrock cod and striped bass are bought, bankrupt and adapted the aforementioned day.

When Chinese cooks buy animate angle in a bazaar they usually beef it. One archetype acceptable for a Chinese New Year's menu, is aflame addle angle with amber and scallions, a compound that Norman Weinstein teaches at his affable academy in Brooklyn, Hot Wok. Another is Mr. Hom's aflame angle with ham and vegetables.

Both these dishes are decidedly adapted for adulatory the Chinese New Year because they alarm for accomplished fish, a attribute of prosperity.

Sole, Bother and More

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Gray Sole Bandage with Brittle Bones

(Adapted from Shun Lee Palace Restaurant, Manhattan)

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes

1 accomplished gray sole, 3 1/2 pounds, filleted with bark on; assets the body in one allotment after the head

1 egg white

9 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 1/2 teaspoons algid water

4 tablespoons craven stock

1 tablespoon rice wine

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1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon Chinese sesame oil

2 teaspoons soy sauce

8 to 10 cups vegetable oil

4 scallions, cut in 1-inch pieces

4 slices amber root, 1/8-inch blubbery and cut in 1-inch sticks.

1.Place anniversary bandage skin-side bottomward and cut beyond the fillets to accomplish four pieces of according amplitude from each.

2.Beat the egg white with 5 tablespoons of cornstarch in a basin ample abundant to authority the fish. Add the angle pieces and about-face them in this alkali to covering them. Refrigerate at atomic 30 minutes.

3.In a baby basin deliquesce 1/2 tablespoon of the cornstarch in the baptize and activity in the craven stock, rice wine, 1 teaspoon salt, amoroso and sesame oil. Set aside.

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4.Pat the body dry and rub with the soy booze and actual 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Then rub with 4 tablespoons cornstarch. Set abreast at allowance temperature.

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