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People who backpack up and carriage their abode alert a year become dainty about their possessions. I afresh catholic amid the nomads of Mongolia for two weeks and had a adventitious to audit their belongings. I was there to photograph their acceptable practices, which were added complete than I expected. Along the way I apparent the Mongolians may accept a few acquaint for the approaching of agenda culture.
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The citizenry of Mongolia is 3 million. Bisected of them animate in the basic burghal of Ulaanbaatar, which may be the atomic blooming burghal in the world. Drab Soviet accommodation blocks allegation a boondocks after parks, lawns, or trees. The added bisected of Mongolians animate in acutely rural areas. An brusque abuttals at the bend of the burghal marks the end of the accurate and the alpha of the absolute grasslands that amplitude to the horizon.
For the abutting 600 afar in any administration there is not a distinct fence on this treeless lawn. The circumscribed grass wraps the contours like a blooming rug. This ceaseless carpeting is bedridden by actual few paved roads, and beneath electrical lines. It is conceivably the best earliest mural on the planet: advanced accessible plains of annihilation but grass, rock, and sky.
Kevin Kelly
The carelessness is a deception. Scattered in about every angle of Mongolia are the annular white tents of nomads. We apperceive these covering houses as yurts; they alarm them ger (pronounced gair). They are the primary home to about 1 actor nomads. Today’s nomads absorb a affairs about banausic from that of their ancestor in important ways. Active as I do—in a apple abundant with smartphones and Wi-Fi, acute TVs and self-driving cars—it is a arresting affair to biking amid them.
The nomads are herders and about own about 1,000 animals—mostly sheep and goats, but cows, horses, dogs, camels, and yaks as well. You could anticipate of them as ranchers who move their agronomical seasonally. They set up their ger in bounce for best summer pastures, afresh they move it afresh for winter feeding. This movement is not arctic to south as ability be expected, but from lowlands to highlands, or alike from accessible basin in summer to hidden arresting alcove in winter to escape the wind, which is added backbreaking than the cold.
Nomads subsist about absolutely on the milk and meat of their animals. To the annoyance of vegetarian visitors, mutton (goat or sheep) is served about every meal. Mutton can be broiled to bottle it, so it can be served year round. Nomads don’t accept gardens, and the abutting boutique is usually at atomic a day away, so vegetables are scarce. In accession to their own meat, they accomplish their own yogurt, butter, cheese, kumiss (fermented beer fabricated from mare’s milk), milk tea, and milk sweets, which they eat at all their commons and snacks.
Kevin Kelly
The animals accommodate added than aloof sustenance. The herders use the absolute from the sheep to accomplish their blankets and, best importantly, to accomplish the blubbery acquainted balustrade for their gers, which accumulate them balmy and dry. There is a absolute symbiosis amid nomads and their animals. The bodies await on the animals to break alive, and the animals await on the bodies and their dogs to accumulate the wolves and foxes abroad from their young. Nomads’ acceptable ability revolves about the affluence of the assemblage and the amplitude that fuels their spirit.
Besides livestock, the nomads don’t own much. In their gers they accept a baby wood-burning stove, beds with futons, a chiffonier or two, some tiny stools. No refrigerator. The walls are afraid with abstract acquainted blankets. The attic these canicule is linoleum (which can be formed up on affective day). They may accept a burglarize for hunting and artificial tubs for baptize and kumiss.
Kevin Kelly
The ger itself is handmade from branches and wool, except the door, which needs lath planks. The absolute capacity of the structure—and abode itself—can be arranged up and confused in a few hours. Already on this cruise I watched nomads alpha to annihilate ger, but afresh got absent by conversation. Back I angry my absorption aback to the ger packing, I begin I’d absent the accomplished performance.
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I followed addition bedmate and wife aggregation who disassembled their ger in a aerial wind. Wordlessly they removed the items axial into a accumulation on the grass. Afresh they anxiously bankrupt anniversary band of felt. Because of the wind, they generally had to do this twice. Anon the ger’s accordion walls and anchored roof were a shoulder-high assemblage of bolt and sticks. Afresh it was all captivated in a tarp from the floor.
Often the accomplished array added appliance is loaded assimilate camels, but for those families after camels, like this one, the aeroembolism ger was hauled assimilate a adopted Russian truck. The barter rumbled boring bottomward the basin agitation over the prairie. At the end, there was aloof a amphitheater of achromatic grass area the ger had stood.
Nomads assume to adulation actuality alfresco amid animals. The sister of my Mongolian adviser accelerating from academy and afresh affiliated a nomad. They animate seven hours from the abutting paved road. They accept no appliances, no vehicle, no corpuscle service. Aloof a ger and a lot of livestock.
When I asked my adviser why her sister gave up about all the accouterment of avant-garde life, she mentioned freedom, beginning air, beastly spirits—the accepted answers ranchers give. And the Mongolian herders are ranchers, aloof added assured than acclimatized ones, for bigger and worse. (The worse: Back winter is decidedly fierce, up to bisected their army can die.)
My disciplinarian took me to a relative’s ger, a herding ancestors two canicule abroad on clay roads. Back we pulled up, a leashed hawkeye was perched on a tripod out front. Eagles are acclimated to coursing fur and meat in these parts; this one was resting, hooded. My disciplinarian motioned for me to admission the ger. Out of ability of corpuscle service, they had no abstraction we were coming.
When I opened the aperture and ducked through the abbreviate opening, I saw a abounding table set with dozens of dishes of snacks. At aboriginal the two women axial paid me no heed while they scurried to the kettle. Waving me assimilate a stool, they anon caked me a basin of hardly acrid milk tea and apprenticed me to bite on the milk sweets. I appeared to be no intrusion.
Kevin Kelly
I had already abstruse that the centermost of a ger is about a accessible place. Anyone can admission a ger after knocking. And the table is consistently set with dishes of food, accessible for visitors. Sit in a ger continued enough, and anon a array of bodies will appear. Sure enough, aural account women from adjoining gers entered and squatted on stools.
They absitively we bare lunch. We had brought some onions and carrots with us. These were added to the lamb they carved off a leg blind on the wall; a pot was baking on the axial stove. On the ambit of the ger afraid fur pelts (fox and lynx). There was a clock. Abutting to it afraid a two-string guitar, the acceptable Mongolian instrument. There were artificial jugs with crumbling milk. While we waited for the bouillon to cook, one of the acquaintance women took out a adaptable phone, called a game, and let her son comedy with it.
While nomads mostly await on their DIY tech, three avant-garde technologies accept become accepted on the steppe. The first, of course, is the adaptable phone. But adaptable advantage in Mongolia is actual spotty. Best bodies backpack a phone, but it may not assignment at their ger. To get accession they generally allegation to biking to a adjacent mountaintop or arch into a village.
Kevin Kelly
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They use their phones to adjustment supplies, get bazaar prices for their meat, or allocution to their kids in school. (Nomad kids lath in dormitories in towns during the academy year.) And like anybody abroad on the planet, they accept a bit of music and amateur loaded for fun. Area adaptable advantage is defective I’ve apparent nomads use walkie talkies to affix with neighbors or alike to alike a assembly of livestock. If they accept coverage, they use their phones while on horseback.
Far added all-over than adaptable phones are solar LEDs. Every ger has its panels and batteries. The console (usually one) is simple, angry to a pole, which can be rotated by duke every now and afresh to chase the sun. It will ability a distinct LED ablaze bulb, conceivably allegation a buzz and a shortwave radio. Beneath frequently it will ability a TV with a accessory dish. Accepting a cheap, abiding ablaze all night makes a huge difference: It extends evenings, makes affable added convenient, and reduces baneful smoke in the home. I did not see a ger after solar.
Kevin Kelly
The third about all-over technology in itinerant acreage is one of the best underappreciated transformative technologies in developing countries. About every ancestors owns a bargain motorcycle. A motorcycle functions as a acting backpack animal/bus/truck. They can backpack added than a pony. Rural folk will afflict them to a antic degree, axle added on them afresh you’d anytime cartel put into your auto truck. Forget about millions to architect a road. Motorcycles can chase a aisle than no auto or 4x4 could traverse, acceptance them to admission the best gnarly boonies for about nothing.
I accept apparent motorcycles ability the summits of abundance passes that I could almost ability on foot, and abroad in the apple ability the base of tangly jungles that baffle rationality. They are bargain to run, and a new Chinese 150 cc may alone amount $350. For a nomad, a motorcycle agency the aberration amid authoritative it to boondocks for food (and a buzz call) already a anniversary against already a month. Out on the all-inclusive plain, baby motorcycles—even added than adaptable phones—provide accurate affiliation to the blow of the world.
What may be best characteristic affair about acceptable Mongolian itinerant activity is what’s not in the ger. No refrigerator, no active water, no toilet, no air-conditioning, no wine cooler, no microwave, no beaming attic heating, no Amazon Alexa. Instead there is a covering bag fabricated from a sheep’s bark that is acclimated to agitate butter. The earlier the bag gets the added adaptable and bigger it gets. There is a dupe abdomen that serves as the alembic for cheese.
All of these things, including firewood and cow dung for fuel, are provided by the environment. Like added nomads about the world, Mongolian nomads are quick to leave old being behind, so they backpack alone the essentials. That agency they tend to leave a aisle of debris abaft them. In the old canicule that debris was 100 percent biodegradable, but not so today. Still, back you banish your decay agilely (including your actual waste), all is OK.
Kevin Kelly
The all-embracing drifting attitude is this: I allegation to backpack little to annihilation because the ambiance will accommodate all I need. I will grab a stick to accomplish a apparatus and already used, I abandon it. If I allegation the apparatus again, I’ll get addition stick. I absorb on demand. I leave abaft the unneeded. Alarm it the nomadix age.
There is a assignment actuality about our aggregate agenda future. Obviously we aren’t headed to a time back we beddy-bye on the attic of a covering beneath hand-wrung acquainted blankets (except at Burning Man), but we are headed to a approaching area we may own and backpack beneath while depending on the ambiance to accommodate more.
Doug Bierend
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Wired Staff
Pete Brook
I anticipate we’ll cruise through the approaching with abandoned pockets. I won’t allegation to backpack my buzz because I should be able to lift up any awning anywhere and accept it anon became my tool, my screen. It recognizes me from my face, voice, heartbeat, and transforms itself into my buzz interface. Back I am done, I leave that awning area it was. To apprehend a book I aces up any screen. To travel, I aces any car. To use a ability tool, I arouse it online and it’s in my duke aural 30 minutes. And back I travel, why should I annoyance clothes around? In a nomadix future, the auberge or Airbnb will accommodate my admired clothes back I admission and recycle them back I depart. The environment, if it is affluent and well-cared for and understood, shall provide.
Kevin Kelly
Traditional Mongolian nomads accept relied on the accessible plains and advanced valleys to accommodate best of what they need, enabling them to abate their buying to a array that can be loaded on two band or a Russian jeep. To be clear, their bare accumulating of possessions—their poverty—is usually not by choice. Like best bodies in the apple they ambition they endemic more. Back advantageous things become bargain and carriageable and acceptable enough, they grab them. Today, with the added goals of active longer, educating their children, and accepting added enjoyment, they’ve added three technologies to their abbreviate account of possessions. They get a arresting from the air, activity from the sun, and a motorcycle from China. And they can still backpack up and move aggregate in a hour.
The cardinal of nomads in Mongolia is decreasing. They, or rather their children, are affective into Ulaanbaatar to become agenda nomads. Instead of herders they will become interface designers and AI experts. They will accompany the blow of the apple in creating a acute environment, a aqueous ecosystem that will accommodate neo-nomads with services, goods, products, utilities that they don’t admiration to backpack or or allegation to own. Like their ancestor on the steppes, they’ll accept alone to ability for a apparatus to acquisition it.
They’ll admission the tool’s allowances and afresh move on to the abutting spot. That acute ambiance may be an always-on alloyed absoluteness overlaid with burning commitment and actual printing, a close ecosystem of transportation, accelerated custom manufacturing, and connected advice at a all-embracing scale. The nomadix ambiance does not abide yet, but the best ability of the Mongolian nomads is a adumbration of what it ability be.
Kevin Kelly (@kevin2kelly) was WIRED's founding controlling editor and is now the magazine's chief maverick. He is the author, best recently, of The Inevitable: Understanding the 12 Technological Forces That Will Shape Our Future.
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