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I’ve lived in Paris allotment time for 20 years, but it took a while afore I accomplished that I’d never heard a French acquaintance say “dinner party.” Aback an allurement is offered, it goes article like: “Venez dîner à la maison.” And aback my accompany echo it in English, they say, “Come home for dinner.” The amore in these words addled me aback I aboriginal heard them and set me at ease, dehydration whatever account I had about French dinners actuality airless — and I had been abiding they would be. The byword alleged to apperception — of course, alike the banal can complete affecting in French — lots of laughter, adequate wine, an black that unfolds at a comfortable clip and ends late. It was what I capital my own Parisian dinners at home to be.

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Home has consistently been Saint-Germain-des-Prés, but I’m in a new apartment. We confused beforehand this year, and while I’m still activity my way about it, I already apperceive it’s a admirable abode for absorbing friends. The active and dining areas are one slant-ceilinged amplitude with three baby balconies, anniversary with geraniums, that bifold as wine coolers aback the acclimate is right. In absolute acreage speak, the kitchen is “charming”; in applied agreement it’s baby and demands neatness. It’s a attenuated galley that ends in bifold doors to accession balcony, this one with herbs I can snip.

Over the years, I’ve taken to authoritative dinners on Mondays, the night best French hosts adopt to avoid, because all the alfresco markets and best of the best baby aliment shops are bankrupt that day — it’s absurd to get a bait of accomplished cheese on Mondays. But because abounding restaurants are additionally closed, it’s a adequate night to augment the bodies who generally chef for me, my accompany who assignment in food.

I actualize a card that can be able absolutely advanced of time — usually the capital advance will charge to be reheated, and aggregate will charge to be plated, but annihilation will accumulate me in the kitchen long. And while I don’t adulation the constraint, I adulation the three or four hours I absorb the day afore acquisition accoutrement at my adjacency markets. I apperceive I could buy aggregate at a supermarket, but there would be no amusement in it, no adventitious to babble with Twiggy, the cheesemonger, and bolt up on the adjacency news, and no befalling to altercate with Serge, the butcher, how I was activity to chef my osso buco. Anniversary additive has its own adventure by the time I get it home.

A ages or so ago, I fabricated a Monday-night banquet for food-world friends, delighting in advertent that, while they knew of one another, not all of them had met. In accession to my husband, Michael, and me, there were two restaurateurs, Bertrand Auboyneau and Juan Sanchez; one cooking-school owner, Jane Bertch; and one baker, Apollonia Poilâne, who brought loaves of aphotic bread.

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People in the aliment business are accessible to feed: They’re beholden to accept accession abroad in the kitchen and affectionate if things aren’t aloof so. But alike if they’re quick to avoid whatever faux pas I, an American, ability make, it’s because I’m an American in their country that I appetite to get it right. With the barring of the cheese plate, which block in amidst the capital advance and ambrosia in France (and for which I aboriginal on bought a book to advise myself how to cut cheeses into their able shapes), banquet runs appealing abundant the aforementioned way in both countries. Yet it can be like those cognates you apprentice in a adopted accent — the words complete agnate to those we know, but they about-face out to accept altered meanings.

There was the time I served absurd craven and couldn’t get anyone to aces it up with their easily — for the best part, the French are not finger-lickers. The time all the cheese I served with drinks was larboard extra — cheese is for the cheese course, not for a nibble. The time I put aggregate out on the table at once, calling it an calm picnic, and my guests, although apprenticed to mix and match, reorganized my hodgepodge into a accomplished adequate French meal and ate one bowl at a time, abrogation the bloom for last, as is done.

Although I now apperceive what’s accustomed and acceptable, I occasionally veer off advance and consistently devious at the alpha of the evening. On this Monday, accompany began accession at about 8, late-ish by American standards and aloof a bit on the aboriginal ancillary by French ones. Banquet consistently starts in the active allowance and usually at atomic a quarter-hour afterwards the time you’ve asked bodies to appear (it’s advised boorish to access on time, as it’s affected that the host consistently needs a few added minutes). I had aggregate for l’heure de l’apéro, or cocktail hour, set out on the baby table in advanced of the sofa, and I opened the aboriginal canteen of white wine as bodies got settled. Bertrand took off his anorak — banquet at our home is never chic — Jane begin an armchair and was talking aliment with Michael, a home baker, and Juan began pouring. Apollonia accustomed a little later, and I put her rye aliment abutting to the gravlax and dill yogurt I had fabricated a few canicule before. The black had amorphous and, aural minutes, I heard my admired sound: the bell of glasses affecting in a toast.

Custom would accept had me confined the wine with aerial tidbits — usually nuts, olives, acrid absurd and, inexplicably, blooming tomatoes in any season. But because banquet starts late, and this anterior moment lasts one hour — you can set your alarm by it — I’d fabricated the gravlax, casual the aboriginal annular and again auspicious anybody to advice themselves.

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We eventually drifted to the table, set with wine- and baptize glasses, carafes, bright ceramics plates Michael and I agitated aback from a vacation in the South of France and odd dishes and argent we begin at flea markets. I had flowers and candles, but no tablecloth or aliment plates — I adulation the way the French put their aliment anon on the table, the assured crumbs basic hieroglyphs of aggregate celebration.

The actualization of the broiled peppers, brushed with oil and sherry alkali and sitting on ricotta alloyed with auto and herbs, sparked a chat about gardens. Bertrand had buried a vegetable garden, a potager, in Normandy to accumulation his Paris restaurants, and Juan had affairs to bulb one in Champagne. Already the bowl was finished, Bertrand briefly angry on his buzz (sheepishly allurement permission first), and pictures of tomatoes and peppers and chard, leeks, potatoes, eggplants and baby zucchini with admirable billowing chicken blossoms were anesthetized around.

Then came the osso buco, which I abiding in bank bowls in the kitchen, agreement anniversary annular of meat over a annihilate purée and putting alone the gremolata on the table (to ensure that I wouldn’t accept a echo of the barbecue experience). For a few moments there was blackout alternate by mmmms, the best acclaim in any language. Again there were questions about how continued I adapted the meat (about 90 minutes), comments about the accession of orange in the booze (noticeable, but not ever so) and acclaim for the abnormal accession of olives (and the actuality that they were oil-cured). The cheese plate, consistently accepted but not usually talked about (praise is aloof alone for things homemade), followed and was talked about, as the Lou Poutou, a bendable cow’s-milk cheese from southwestern France, was new to Jane and Bertrand. As I was allowance the dishes, Michael noticed that it was 11 o’clock, and so we refilled our wineglasses and went assimilate the balustrade to see the Eiffel Tower animation — an break that ability aloof become a ritual.

Asking questions can get a bedfellow to acknowledge article alluring about herself. But a quick way to anticipate that is to accord her accessible answers. “Why did you abdicate law academy — was it too boring?” Leave out the guess. A abbreviate catechism is added acceptable to abet details.

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These dinners at home are not absolutely about the food. They’re about accord and the chat that goes on about the table, generally backward into the night. Yet so abundant of the allocution is about aliment — the aliment we’re sharing, the commons we remember, the ones we’ll anon eat, the aliment we’ve adapted and what we appetite to cook. New restaurants. New chefs. Has anyone approved the Italian arrest at the market? Is aliment accepting bigger or worse in the city? Of course, there’s additionally allocution of politics: Will Paris’s ambassador absolutely ban cars? What will Macron do? And Trump? “Oh, let’s allocution about dessert,” accession says, and we do.

I had fabricated wine-poached pears spiced with cinnamon, cloves and brilliant anise and a cookie with Italian roots, alleged a torta sbrisolona. The cookie, an eight-inch square, is a common alms — anniversary being alcove in and break off a piece. It was accomplished midnight aback I noticed that the candles had austere to stubs. I didn’t about-face up the lights — the coziness was too nice. We all had our elbows on the table amidst the drop of crumbs. We angled in, alert closely, and caked one accession added wine.

Dorie Greenspan is the On Ambrosia columnist for the annual and the columnist of a dozen cookbooks; her abutting book, “Everyday Dorie,” will be appear in 2018.

Photographs by John Kernick for The New York Times. Aliment stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophie Glasser.

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Table Talk: Rico Gagliano and Brendan Francis Newnam are the authors of the accessible book “Brunch Is Hell” from Little, Brown. They host “The Banquet Affair Download” podcast and radio program.

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