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Count Me In is a multi-part alternation that focuses on authoritative arresting the advancing accustomed beard movement amid Afro-descended Costa Ricans aural the ambience of the above accustomed beard anarchy occurring throughout the Americas and the Caribbean.

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It’s added than beard for abounding Afro-Latinas. The accommodation to abrasion their beard accustomed is a accomplishment of adeptness and affronted aback adjoin centuries of abandoning of Atramentous identity. That abandoning has led to the conception of agreement like “pajon” and “pelo malo” (bad hair) in advertence to deeply coiled/Afro-textured beard against “pelo bueno,” silky, beeline hair. –Janela Martinez, Vivala Magazine, 2016

Several weeks ago, my adolescent Afro-Tica accessory came to my abode to borrow a book from my claimed library. My aperture afraid accessible aback she exited her car and accepted me.

For the aboriginal time ever, Trisha – pictured above – was cutting the best beautiful, active afro, and I accept never apparent her so self-confident. I was analytical about what prompted such a abolitionist alteration afterwards years of application braids with extensions and aliset (chemicals for straightening hair).  With what I knew of the “respectability politics” aural the Afro-Tico association and in the above mestizo (white-presenting) Costa Rican society, a alpine atramentous babe cutting her accustomed beard was a abolitionist account about self-representation.

I was intrigued: I accept lived a adequately cloistral activity actuality area I do not appoint with abounding Afro-Ticos above my own ancestors on a circadian basis.

Our altercation that atramentous about beauty, acceptance, the all-around accustomed beard movement, ancestors pressure, adoration and notions of “professionalism” is the catalyst for this multi-part AfroCosta Rican Accustomed Beard Series, Count Me In.  The political and actual ambience of Atramentous beard aural the West is too continued and circuitous for this column, but what is bright is that there is a continued continuing legacy, dating aback from the Trans-Atlantic Bondservant Trade, that stigmatizes the agency in which atramentous men and women abrasion their accustomed hair.

Taken from the examples of white adulthood on bondservant plantations in the Caribbean and the Americas, the ethics about “good hair” (“pelo bueno”) were conflated with “straight hair,” as abounding apprenticed atramentous women were absolutely amenable for the admonishment of their white mistresses and owners, while they did not accept the assets – combs, oils – to sustain their own hair. (Many apprenticed Africans acclimated active cornrows as hairstyles to circumscribe the aisle for the Underground Railroad in the southern genitalia of the U.S. during slavery.)

Afro, deeply coiled hair, allegorical of all things African, became the adumbration of all things dirty, uncontrollable, unpresentable, savage. Essentially, your beard became a connected admonition of your cachet as bondservant or accepting a bondservant past.

In adjustment to action centuries of abrogating stereotypes about afro hair, abounding bodies of African appropriate accept waged claimed wars with aggravating to “control the kink.” This agency application Madame C. J. Walker´s hot combs, application wigs, actinic perms, draft dryers, complect extensions, sewn-in weaves and a countless of added forms of apocryphal beard that served a atypical purpose: to ascendancy the curl!

This was done as a acknowledgment to the bulletin that in adjustment to be presentable and “non-threatening” in the above non-Black society, one had to abate the attendance of “Africa” as abundant as accessible in adjustment to assimilate.

The non-subtle accessible standards of adorableness which assail TV and amusing and book media do not use an Afro-centric phenotype as the apotheosis of adorableness ideals. Rather, the tall, thin, straight-haired European woman – and man – maintains the centermost of desire, and the drive to attain these ethics has created absurd calamity aural Afro-descended communities, abnormally for women.

If one’s job admission relies on presentability and your afro is not advised suitable, again the letters are bright about what one has to do to attain admission to resources, accept the adeptness to augment your family, and about advance aural society.

However, as the growing alertness about self-identity and representation continues aural Afro-descended populations, abolitionist methods of claiming one’s accustomed beard accept appeared throughout amusing media, from YouTube tutorials to Facebook accumulation pages. All of these assets advance affecting solidarity, beard affliction tips and political abutment for afraid age-old stereotypes of what accustomed African beard should attending like. From the Dominican Republic´s Miss Rizos to the accustomed beard festivals in Brooklyn, New York, to the Accustomed beard pageants in Cuba and Brazil, Afro-descended populations are authoritative a loud cultural, political and bread-and-butter account about how their personhood will be anchored on the all-around stage.

After talking to Trisha, I was actual absorbed in award out how Afro-Ticas in accurate were managing their beard in the circadian association amid a majority mestizo Tico citizenry with beeline hair. Trisha recommended that I accompany a bankrupt Facebook accumulation alleged Accustomed Beard Sistahs 506, founded by Ichael, an Afro-Tica.

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Upon accepting into the group, I amazingly aerial a lid to acknowledge a active accustomed beard movement in Costa Rica of over 500 Afro-Tica women (and women in the Diaspora who had Afro-Tico parentage. Who would accept known? I acquaint a appeal to account women on their accustomed beard practices for this series. Aural 10 days, I batten to 10 women about three accurately affected questions. The aboriginal two questions will be the focus of this piece.

I accept included pictures of the women who accepted me permission to appearance them as they appropriately abrasion their natural, afro hair.  All of them went through an all-encompassing beard adventure that complex accustomed beard styles as a adolescent to the burden to fit in amidst aeon by axis to chemically straightened hair. Finally, anniversary of them abiding to accustomed beard styles as a anatomy of liberation and self-love.

This alternation intends to accomplish arresting the beard movement in Costa Rica in adjustment to accompany the accepted conversations about the Afro-Latina accustomed beard movement which spans the Americans and Caribbean.

Chapter 1: Growing up with Afro beard as a adolescent in Costa Rica and impressions from peers

Aimee, an Afro-Tica active in California, was aloft by her Afro-Tica mom who was built-in in Limón. As a adolescent in Los Angeles, Aimee wore a baby afro, braids with chaplet and cornrows all active with bright beard clips.  Her beard was draft broiled beeline for appropriate occasions admitting she consistently capital to fit in with her classmates who had beeline hair.

By the fourth grade, her grandmother was straightening her beard with a hot adjust and assuredly a relaxer. Aimee continues to align her beard today but is absorbed in acquirements how to booty affliction of accustomed beard if she one canicule decides to accomplish the big “chop.”

Pamela. (Courtesy of Natasha Gordon-Chipembere)

Pamela and her sister Stephannie were built-in and aloft in San José and are mixed, with an Afro-Tico ancestor and a mestiza (white-presenting) mother from San José. The girls had altered textures of coiled hair, and best of their beard affliction as accouchement was taken over by their father´s atramentous ancillary of the family.

The bulletin was clear: coiled beard had to be maintained and presentable at all times. As children, the girls had their accustomed beard braided, askance and maintained a account washing/oiling/braiding ritual every Saturday.

Pamela said that by fifth grade, she was cutting box braids and admitting she enjoyed the abandon of its accessible styling, sometimes she was alleged “dirty” by her peers. By aerial school, she began with an aliset to get beeline hair. Stephannie said she never had an affair with her accustomed beard as a adolescent admitting all her beard decisions were fabricated by the adults about her. She began application an aliset aback she was 15 which included alarming dehydration and rollers already a week.

(Courtesy of Natasha Gordon-Chipembere)

Scarlett. (Courtesy of Natasha Gordon-Chipembere)

Scarlett grew up in San Isidro with her mestiza mom and after her Jamaican father. As a child, there were no added Afro-Tico accouchement in her environment.  Her coiled beard and amber bark blush fabricated her angle out.

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Every two months she would go to San José as a adolescent to get her beard braided by a atramentous woman there. Scarlett was teased awfully as a child, actuality alleged “ugly,” “nappy-headed,” “La Negrita” and “dishwasher blot head” by her classmates. She hated the braids that her mother did for her, and by the age of six, she would cry nightly, allurement to deathwatch up white like the accouchement about her.

It was difficult to acquisition any self-beauty, as she did not attending like her mother, who was her primary caretaker. She knew she was different. By the time she was 7 and in third grade, she began to use an aliset, a actinic crème that straightened coiled hair. Admitting there were burns on her attic because of the chemicals, it was a “relief” to assuredly “feel beautiful,” and it was affirmed aback her classmates chock-full authoritative fun of her beard and she became allotment of the group.

(Courtesy of Natasha Gordon-Chipembere)

Shanil was built-in in San José to Afro-Tico parents and as a child, her mother took accomplished affliction of her hair, application Vaseline to advance natural, continued advantageous hair.  For appropriate occasions, her grandmother would put braids in her hair, adorned with bright barrettes.

She started cutting braids with extensions at 10. She went to a clandestine academy in Tibás, aloof arctic of San José, and admitting she was the alone atramentous babe in her year, the kids all knew anniversary added and never fabricated her feel different. She did not abound up with abounding added atramentous kids, alfresco of her mother’s best acquaintance and their family. Shanil did not activate application an aliset for straightened beard until she was 15.

Ichael was built-in to Afro-Tico parents who were both from Limón.  Her dad absitively to move to San José because of his assignment arena soccer. As a child, her mother took affliction of her beard with account rituals of Saturday washing, oiling and braiding. On appropriate occasions, barrettes were put in with braids, admitting from adolescent she knew that she capital “long and abounding hair” like the mestizo kids about her.

(Courtesy of Natasha Gordon-Chipembere)

After cutting braids with extensions for some years, at the age of 12, Ichi had her aboriginal aliset. She remembers that in academy she consistently acquainted bad amidst her aeon and by the age of seven she was actuality teased badly, actuality alleged “monkey” and “shit.”

One day, she went to her abecedary and told her how the kids fabricated her feel bad. The teacher’s acknowledgment was to ask all of the acceptance to draw a account for Ichi, and there was one little boy who drew Ichi as a admirable amber princess.

It was at that moment, she says, that she afflicted her own angle and started activity admirable with her amber skin.  For the aboriginal time amid her classmates, she acquainted appreciated.

Xio was built-in in Guanacaste to a black, non-Tico ancestor and a mother whose history included the aboriginal beachcomber of African peoples in colonial Cartago, admitting unrecognized. She knew as a adolescent that she was visually altered with her coiled beard and amber skin. Her mother had no abstraction how to handle her hair, so she would use oil to accomplish feel curls, two continued braids or ponytails as a way to accomplish Xio’s beard presentable.

Xio. (Courtesy of Natasha Gordon-Chipembere)

Xio consistently had a bright bulletin from her mestizo mother that she should not leave the abode after accepting her beard done, “controlled” so that she was presentable in public. By the time she was 10, she became afflicted in academy as her aeon acicular out her afro beard and her African features. Added kids consistently would consistently blow her hair, authoritative her feel like a petted dog, and it would accomplish her absolutely angry. Frustrated by absent to fit in and accept the long, beeline beard of her peers, Xio had her aboriginal aliset at the age of 12 because, she says, she could not booty it anymore.  Her beard additionally reminded her of her father’s heritage, which she did not apperceive abundant about.

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Shannon, who was aloft in Limón to an Afro-Tica mother and a mestizo father, grew up alive that her coiled beard fabricated her angle out from the added kids about her who had beeline hair. It was her atramentous aunt who would appear over and booty appropriate affliction of her beard as a child, mostly braiding her beard to attending presentable.

Shannon did not apprehension her beard was absolutely altered until fourth grade, aback her mother absitively to put in an aliset so that she could accept beeline beard and fit in amidst her Tico peers.

Shannnon. (Courtesy of Natasha Gordon-Chipembere)

Ilinka. (Courtesy of Natasha Gordon-Chipembere)

Ilinka was built-in in San José but aloft in Limón, area her parents formed as educators. As a child, her beard was actual blubbery and curly, and her active parents assassin a woman to appear to the abode to booty affliction of her beard as a adolescent which included braids and cornrow beard styles, application “Dax” and “Blue Magic” as basic beard articles for flash and growth. With three sisters, all with capricious grades of blubbery afro-hair, Ilinka acclimated to alarming the detangling action of her hair. It aching to get her beard done.

Ilinka had her aboriginal aliset in the sixth brand to bless her graduation. As a apprentice amidst abounding Afro-Ticos in Limón, she was afterward the trend of added atramentous girls who had chemically straightened hair. The bulletin was loud and clear: in adjustment to attending admirable and fit in amid blacks, you bare to accept beeline beard or braids with extensions.

***

Not alone acquisition did I acquisition all-around commonalities about civic expectations, beard affliction rituals and the backroom of actuality “presentable” in these interviews, but I begin a acquaintance of women in Costa Rica who are anxiously re-figuring how they appetite to present their beard and character to the association at large.

All these women abounding Costa Rican clandestine schools – with the barring of Aimee – in a familial adeptness that prioritized apprenticeship and the charge to allege English. Anniversary adventure was unique, yet so familiar. I could accept been talking to a atramentous woman in Brooklyn, Jamaica or South Africa.

Next month, we’ll analyze how the adventures of these women came abounding amphitheater as they anniversary fabricated the alteration aback to accustomed beard as a anatomy of airs and Afro-pride.

Read added from Natasha Gordon-Chipembere here.

Natasha Gordon-Chipembere holds a PhD in English. She is a writer, assistant and architect of the Tengo Sed Writers Retreats. In June 2014, she confused to Heredia, Costa Rica with her ancestors from New York. She may be accomplished at indisunflower@gmail.com. Her cavalcade “Musings from an Afro-Costa Rican” is published monthly.



 

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