Ella Kitchen | ella kitchen and barella kitchen and bar
Ella’s Ability Bar is called for one of its co-owners’ daughters, but as far as this New England-meets-Miami seafood collective is concerned, Ella is additionally the aces persona of the abode as a bounded “she” who is sassy, fun and so Little Havana.
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Ella Kitchen | ella kitchen and barThe chica’s got moxie. And she brand to comedy with her food.
That agency you’ll acquisition chorizo in her backtalk meat and Cuban absurd served alongside oysters. Ella’s all-over lobster cycle comes captivated in a broiled medianoche bread. Her ability po boy is sandwiched central Cuban bread.
Casual and spunky, the storefront restaurant seats 78, with a baby kitchen accessible at the aback of the ellipsoidal space. A dejected mural of the allegorical sea monster Kraken by artists from EVLworld Studio in Wynwood covers one white-washed brick wall. A ample photo of the Miami skyline at aphotic hangs from another, forth with light-bulb belletrist that spell out OYSTERS. Terrazzo floors, automated blind lights and apparent metal beam grids accent the relaxed, bounded attributes of the place, although they do little to ascendancy the noise.
Just smile and nod, you won’t be able to apprehend a affair afterwards Ella’s fills up, which accordingly happens best weekend nights afterwards 8 p.m., back Calle Ocho springs to activity alfresco the 2-month-old ability bar’s account windows. With this working-class, Cuban-rooted adjacency angry gentrification, Little Havana nights as we apperceive them may be numbered, so grab a table while you can and adore the view.
Start with the baby but admirable chalkboard alternative of oysters plucked from the East, West and Gulf coasts, served on a bed of ashamed ice with horseradish, cocktail booze and a bitter red wine alkali mignonette sauce. For those who adopt their seafood broiled or broiled, the slyly called oysters “Rockafeller” with lime, herbs, panko aliment crumbs and sweet, blue uni adulate affiliated in the basal of the shells is a creamy, abstracted choice.
Adventurers should try the cuttle fish, an appetizer that presents the squid-like mollusk as two lobes agilely broiled and served with a limon vinaigrette on top of a able-bodied amazon slice. The bowl is smoky, acerb and decidedly tender.
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Ella Kitchen | ella kitchen and barAnother solid starter: backtalk croquettas with Old Bay hollandaise sauce. They’re brittle on the alfresco and abounding of flaky, creamy crabmeat inside.
The diver scallops entrée, with three ample scallops served aloft broiled blah and truffled ragu, was a table favorite. The Little Havana Clam Bake for two additionally wowed with its presentation in a cast-iron pot. Mussels, clams, Maine lobster, shrimp, amethyst Peruvian potatoes, mini blah cobs and chorizo chunks in a attenuate tomato-base borsch were dumped tableside into a bank metal platter, ambience off a mild billow of alkali air. We would accept adopted cornbread, but the buttered white aliment slices alongside served their purpose for dipping.
Ella’s is a affiliation amid Jordan Marano and Christian Plotczyk, two belligerent Miami chefs who afresh absitively to be their own administration afterwards affair 20 years ago while alive with the China Grill Group and Rosa Mexicano chain. Marano, who is on duke in Ella’s kitchen best nights, is a Culinary Institute of America alum who has formed at DeVito and Il Migliore. Plotczyk, who formed in accumulated administration for Virgin Hotels and One Group Hospitality (STK restaurants), oversees operations.
While servers are not polished, they are affable and alert beneath the hands-on duo’s alert eyes. Back our abbreviate rib entrée fell afar in the kitchen, Marano visited our table with an atoning account for the adjournment again delivered the new-and-improved adaptation after himself. The silky, affluent bowl was account the wait, served with a aphotic pan sauce, brittle shallots and cauliflower mashed with achiote to a marigold color.
Ella’s does not action liquor, but the active copse bar abreast the access makes up for it with bounded brews, a baby alternative of red, white and rosé wines, and able wine- and sake-based cocktails, including a auspicious “mojito.” Forth with chalkboard specials, the one-page card starts with raw bar selections, which accommodate a bounded angle ceviche, adolescent taquitos and a bounded angle tostada.
Ten baby plates, seven entrees and a acceptable alternative of salads, sandwiches and desserts are advised to accumulate seafood lovers happy, although some meat lovers will acquisition joy in the absurd craven and chili queso pancakes with jalapeno honey. The abutting you’ll get to a steak is a cheeseburger.
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Ella Kitchen | ella kitchen and barSide dishes aim to surprise. The plantain two ways, as tater tots and tostones, with a house-made onion dip was one of the few combos that didn’t work. The plantains were anemic and not acrid abundant to brace with the blubbery dip. Attic milk blooming rice, biconcave into a attic half-shell, could calmly accept been served as dessert; it was candied and brindled with beefy cherries — not actual accordant with seafood, but a adorable amusement on its own.
From the sandwiches ancillary of the menu, the lobster cycle was added Tajin mayo than meat. The “surf n’ accommodation frita Cubana,” a patty of agglomeration backtalk meat and chorizo topped with papas (potato) sticks, was hardly mushy.
The Yankee-Miami affair was rekindled by desserts that cleverly alloyed the two worlds, decidedly the pastelito ice chrism sandwich drizzled with caramel booze and the café con leche flan broiled on a credibility bottom.
With the celebrated Art Deco Tower Theater now consistently assuming films beyond the artery and Ball & Alternation packing in ball crowds for alive Latin applesauce one block up, Ella’s could be the alpha of a aces night. “She” may able-bodied be one of the best acceptable bachelorettes in Miami. Swipe right!
Follow Jodi Mailander Farrell on Twitter: @JodiMailander. For the latest restaurant analysis reports, appointment dine.miami.com. Miami Herald critics banquet anonymously at the newspaper’s expense.
Place: Ella’s Ability Bar
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Ella Kitchen | ella kitchen and barAddress: 1615 SW Eighth St., Miami
Rating: ☆ ☆ 1/2 (Good)
Contact: 786-332-4436, www.ellasoysterbar.com
Hours: noon-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, until midnight Friday-Saturday
Prices: $9-$15 starters, $12-$28 entrees, $6-$7 desserts
FYI: VS, MC, AmEx; beer, wine and sake-based cocktails; blessed hour circadian with $1.25 oysters; artery parking is difficult.
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