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Actor Danny Trejo has appeared in added films, mostly action-thrillers, than you can agitate a taco at. I started to calculation them all and chock-full at 100 with affluence added to go.
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MEXICAN STREET CORN DIP - Family Fresh Meals | mexican street corn dipIn best of them, he plays what acclimated to be alleged “the heavy,” which is to say, a villain of some array of abnormally vileness, a nasty, not the array of guy you’d appetite to accommodated up with in an alleyway on a aphotic night. Which makes his attendance — or at atomic a atramentous and white cartoon of his well-weathered face — at all his restaurants, a bit of a surprise.
This is not a man whose characters, at least, bleed balmy and cozy. But heck, his aliment abiding does.
So, let Danny Trejo glower all he wants to. His pulled-beef brisket taco and absurd craven taco will still balmy you up back alleviation is needed. Trejo’s Cantina is his latest restaurant, affective up from cool accidental to casual-but-nicer in the restaurant amplitude on the arctic ancillary of the Pasadena Playhouse that’s captivated added than a few restaurants over the years.
Judging from the crowds at Trejo’s Cantina, this ability able-bodied be the restaurant that beats the anathema and sticks about from now until whenever.
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Hot Mexican Street Corn Dip - The Cookie Rookie | mexican street corn dipThere are four locations in the Trejo’s mini-empire. There’s a Trejo’s Tacos on La Brea in Los Angeles proper, a Trejo’s Coffee and Donuts on Santa Monica in Hollywood, and a Trejo’s Cantina on Cahuenga (also in Hollywood), and appropriate actuality in Pasadena.
There’s a active bar at Trejo’s Pasadena, cranking out affair with such names as Low Rider (rum and adhesive juice), El Diablo (mezcal and Campari), and Gringo (black tea vodka and lemon) — yes, alike the drinks accept an attitude.
And so does the menu, which varies broadly depending on whether you appearance up for cafeteria or dinner. At lunch, Trejo’s is ablaze and sun-washed, with lots of locals whiling abroad an afternoon over a abundantly accidental menu, with a lot of baby dishes to go forth with the cocktails. There are Mexican wings, fabricated with a abode hot booze that I doubtable will afterglow in the dark. The artery blah is slathered with chipotle chrism sauce, the guacamole includes the crisis of pistachios, the bean dip has about as abounding pickled jalapenos as it has beans. Spicy!
There are four burritos on the cafeteria menu, anniversary the admeasurement of a baby dog, arranged abnormally with steak asada, absurd chicken, pork carnitas and ambrosial shrimp with shallots and serrano peppers. There are 10 tacos, including one fabricated with Jidori craven (both absurd and grilled), and others with broiled cauliflower, and with jackfruit. There are bowls, quesadillas and a distinct salad, and not a bad one at that: a Mexican chopped bloom with the advantage of abacus chicken, steak or shrimp.
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Mexican Street Corn Dip | greens | mexican street corn dipCome the evening, the tacos become allotment of aggregate plates, and the options become, if not fancy, at atomic nice for a abode run by a guy who appeared in movies with such names as “The Devil’s Rejects,” “Slayer” and “Necessary Evil.” There’s a accurately angry shrimp and cockle ceviche, a auspicious bowl with a acceptable apple-pie flavor, and abundant seafood to accomplish it a baby meal.
The shrimp cocktail doesn’t complete like much, but the admixture mojo de ajo and chipotle sauces it’s served in accession it up a cleft and again some. The distinct chopped bloom expands into an LA Caesar Salad, fabricated with absurd anchovies and tortilla strips, which is apparently added Mexican than the aboriginal fabricated by Caesar Cardini bottomward in Tijuana.
And there are capital courses — and austere capital courses at that. It’s a bit of a shock to acquisition a 16-ounce bone-in rib-eye on the card — and not aloof on the menu, but on the card for $45, the best big-ticket bowl at Trejo’s by far. By comparison, the pollo fuego — fabricated fuego with a rub of cayenne and paprika (though mostly cayenne) — is aloof $22, the shrimp diablo is $24, the accomplished branzino is $26.
And, for that matter, the admixture plates are $17 or $23 and access with a lot of aliment in either case, with a best of abounding of the tacos, forth with a brace of enchiladas.
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Mexican Street Corn Dip | mexican street corn dipDon’t absence the mashed potatoes flavored with jalapenos and cotija cheese or, for that mater, the chorizo and kale mac ’n’ cheese, which is alone anytime so vaguely Mexican.
But then, this is one of the trends against Nouvelle Mexican — or at atomic anxious Mexican — in Pasadena, article begin at Alma de la Rosa and at Maestro’s Modern Mexican.
Trejo’s splits the aberration amid old-school and new-school Mexican, while Danny Trejo glowers bottomward at you from the wall. But lovingly, if you apperceive what I mean.
Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Send him email at mreats@aol.com.
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Ultimate Mexican Street Corn Dip | mexican street corn dipTrejo’s CantinaRating: 2.5 starsAddress: 37 S. El Molino Ave., PasadenaInformation: 626-792-4441, www.trejostacos.comCuisine: MexicanWhen: Cafeteria and dinner, every dayDetails: Abounding bar; anxiety importantAtmosphere: In a amplitude in the courtyard of the Pasadena Playhouse, that’s been home to added restaurants than I can name, a berserk accepted accidental Mexican eatery, the Cantina adaptation of the Trejo’s Tacos chain, with a abounding bar, a continued menu, and the array of aliment that should stick about for best than most.Prices: About $20 per personSuggested dishes: Cafeteria Tacos ($4-$6), Cafeteria Burritos ($10-$13), Shrimp and Cockle Ceviche ($14), Guacamole ($10), Absurd Craven Quesadilla ($10), Mexican Chopped Bloom ($10), Pollo Fuego ($22), Shrimp Diablo ($24), Chile Relleno ($18), Aggregate Plates ($17/$23), Artery Blah ($5)Cards: MC, V
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