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The best pizza in Italy? It’s in New York City, of course.
["1552"]Well, officially, it’s in Southern Italy — either in pizza baron Naples or in Tramonti, a tiny littoral boondocks that gives its big-city acquaintance a run for its dough. But southern Manhattan has the next-best affair at Tramonti La Pizza pizzeria, on Saint Mark’s Place.
There, chef Giovanni Vittorio Tagliafierro — a Tramonti native, and a fourth-generation pizza maker training the fifth — slings pies in the appearance of his hidden-gem hometown. He’s dreamed of authoritative pizza in NYC afterwards active actuality for years as a boy, and now he’s assuredly authoritative it happen.
Like any Italian collective account its red sauce, the pizzeria’s walls are abounding with affected photos.
“This is my grandfather, my grandmother, my father, my uncle,” Tagliafierro says, pointing to one. “This is the bearing that fabricated history in the pizza of Tramonti.”
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The aboriginal acknowledgment of pizza in the baby Italian boondocks dates aback to 1,200 years ago, according to Tagliafierro. That said, pies looked a little bit altered aback then: They consisted of chef dressed with salt, pepper, garlic, oil and a advance fabricated from (yum) above pig fat.
Chef Tagliafierro has avant-garde his pies a bit — for one, there’s amazon booze and cheese — but on his he keeps one key age-old convenance alive: the chef recipe.
As his ancestors did afore him, Tagliafierrolets his chef blow and acceleration for at atomic 36 hours. That’s at atomic three times as continued as a archetypal avant-garde pizza dough, and so continued that Tagliafierro alone uses said chef for two of his pies (the Marinara and the Verace). But the downtime’s account it: It yields an awfully flavorful, chewy pizza dough.
He additionally uses a compound of yore. Afore aesthetic white abrade became the barometer for pies, pizza makers acclimated a mix of accomplished wheat, millet, rye and barley flours for their dough. The multigrain alloy gives it bloom cred, according to Tagliafierro: “[Tramonti-style] pizza is advised by nutritionists the healthiest pizza we accept in Italy.”
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In general, capacity are a point of pride for Tagliafierro, who insists on accepting Italian artisans accumulation his pizzeria. His additive buyer, Michele Zanichelli, says he’s beholden to be alive with such an accurate establishment.
“It’s not accessible award a chump . . . that absolutely searches for affection and accurate ingredients,” he says. “Few places in NY appetite article like this.”
Thanks to Zanichelli, Tramonti (NYC) was additionally able to account an awfully attenuate amazon alleged Re Fiascone, or the “King Umberto tomato.” It’s a distant, adorable accessory of the San Marzano — and Tagliafierro’s beanery may be the alone abode in America area you can adore the Baron Umberto (on his Marinara, Verace and Al Vesuvio pies).
“This amazon grows with aloof baptize advancing from God,” says Tagliafierro, apropos to Fascione producers’ old-school agriculture practices. “If it’s raining, it’s OK. Not raining, it’s OK!”
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Tagliafierro additionally insisted on application best fior di latte mozzarella from his hometown’s dairy, Antica Latteria di Tramonti. He begged the owners, his ancestors friends, for six months afore they agreed to address the anxiously fabricated formaggio. It was account it — the mozzarella resonates with a hardly appealing acidity and alabaster texture.
Today, there are some 3000 pizzerias run by Tramonti-born pizza chefs in Italy and throughout Europe, but Tramonti [NYC] is currently the alone one stateside.
And the burden is on for Tagliafierro: The pizza snobs aback home are befitting tabs on his shop. “They are cat-and-mouse and they are blockage my after-effects beyond the ocean,” he says.
But Tagliafierro isn’t too afraid — pizza’s in his blood.
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“It is in our DNA,” says Zanichelli. “Behind our capacity there are 2000 years of history.”
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