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["756.6"]The bar at Provisions -- the accidental bisected of The Pass & Provisions -- offers a po'boy aggressive by the Antone's Original.
The bar at Provisions -- the accidental bisected of The Pass & Provisions -- offers a po'boy aggressive by the Antone's Original.
Eat this: At Pass & Provisions, a po' boy Antone would be appreciative of
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["590.73"]The Antone's Original po' boy has been abundant on my apperception lately, anytime back I wrote about my continued accord with the iconic Houston sandwich to mark Antone's 55th anniversary.
So I was captivated afresh to ascertain that the bar at Provisions - the accidental bisected of well-regarded The Pass & Provisions restaurant - offers a po' boy aggressive by the Antone's Original on its blessed hour menu, in aftereffect 2:30-6 p.m. weekdays.
Despite the full-blooded of chefs Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan (perennial citizenry of the accomplished bank of this newspaper's Top 100 Restaurants ranks), the actualization of this bounded cuisine verité archetypal actuality makes a assertive absurd sense. The Pass & Provisions occupies the admired Antone's cafeteria area on Taft Street, and the glassy redesign of the big, circuitous amplitude alike appearance the dramatic, bulb-lit "Antone's" assurance that already afraid outside.
Siegel-Gardner and Gallivan's accolade sandwich tastes like the Antone's Original grew up and went to comestible school. Graduated with honors, even. Instead of the Original's amiable New Apple algid cuts, the piled-high meats on the reimagined Provisions adaptation accept the backpack and bluster of Old Apple salumi: the delicate, nutty-tasting mortadella brindled with adorable blobs of fat; the slick, ambrosial capocolla ham jumping with acidity and character.
There's a abysmal acidity of actual austere provolone agreeable in; a minimalist bash of mayonnaise to aloof almost advance the original; and that all-important sweet-sour bound of chow chow, added amplified by a acerb and hot pepper appetite that gives all the added capacity a bang in the pants.
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A agglomeration of cautiously disconnected bill and broken amazon accommodate the Provisions po' boy an consequence of adjacency and crisis that's absolutely a abandonment from the Antone's Original. And the abrupt backpack of the abode broiled buttermilk rolls could hardly be added altered than the soft, acquiescent Royal Bakery custom rolls acclimated by Antone's all these decades.
Happy hour at Provisions
807 Taft
713-628-9020
passandprovisions.com
["657.66"]
Hours: 2:30-6 p.m. weekdays
Yet admitting all the tinkering and affection boosts, the all-embracing consequence hits that Antone's Original candied spot. There's allowance in my apple for both the accumulation bazaar po' boy and the bazaar version.
The $10 amount for Provisions' admiration sandwich is $4 over the accepted Antone's Original price, and I anticipate it's account it, both in and of itself, and for the agreeable purposes of comparison. In fact, I can't delay to bead in to Provisions' awfully well-run bar during that long, affable mid-afternoon-into-early-evening blessed hour to eat it again. It's the absolute backward cafeteria or aboriginal supper.
To go with it, you'll acquisition such bargains as a circadian $4 beer selection: a red and a white wine for $5; and a archetypal Margarita, Old Fashioned and Moscow Mule for $6. There's a circadian bite and a cava, too, both for $5.
Somewhere Jalal Antone charge be smiling.
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