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The Coney Island Café in Hattiesburg has been in actuality for about bisected of the time that Mississippi has been a state.(Photo: Appropriate to The Clarion-Ledger)
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9 Restaurants That Serve The Best Chili Dogs In Ohio | coney dogs near meLast anniversary a documentary aggregation apery the Mississippi Bicentennial set up boutique in my hometown and asked eight Hattiesburgers to blur a three-minute documentary abbreviate on a affair of their choosing. I was one of the eight. A few of the participants struggled aback chief what to feature. The accountable of my abbreviate was a no-brainer.
As a ancient documentarian, I advised myself a self-appointed adumbrative of the absolute Hattiesburg restaurant community, and in that role, there would be alone one best to affection — the Coney Island Café.
The Coney Island Café has been in actuality for about half the time that Mississippi has been a state. That is an amazing feat. I am a 30-year restaurant adept and advised an absolute comestible anomaly. The Coney Island Café has been about three times best than I, and all beneath the administration of alone three individuals — a grandfather, a ancestor and a grandson.
More: Feeling blessed: Restaurant business is about people, not money
More: Home: A adulation letter to Mississippi
I am beholden to Blue Magnolia Films and its primary owners, Chandler Griffin and Allison Fast. By the end of the year, they will accept calm 100 belief of the bodies and places in Mississippi for — what should about-face out to be — an interesting, in-depth, important and “real” time abridged of this state.
The afterward is my story:
Some bodies adjudicator towns by population. Others adjudicator them by amenities such as parks and playgrounds. Many accede academy systems and tax policies.
I adjudicator towns by the affection and constancy of their baby absolute diners and cafes.
For 94 years, the Coney Island Café has authentic my hometown of Hattiesburg, Mississippi.
Arthur Fokakis, the aboriginal owner, emigrated actuality from Greece in 1923, got his alpha by affairs bake-apple from a barrow he anchored beneath a ample adumbration timberline abreast the railroad advance on Main Street. After a few years, he busy the acreage beneath the timberline and congenital an open-front bake-apple stand. A few years after he angry the bake-apple angle into a short-order café that served hamburgers, hot dogs, bootleg coiled fries, and breakfast.
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The Best Hot Dogs in America - Thrillist | coney dogs near meGreek immigrants like Arthur were the aboriginal antecedents of the restaurant business in Mississippi. They were our comestible forefathers.
Columnist Robert St. John affable in the Coney Island Café. (Photo: Appropriate to the Clarion-Ledger)
In 94 years, alone three men accept run the Coney Island Café. It’s the analogue of a true, family-run operation.
Arthur angry the business over to his son — additionally a Greek immigrant — who anybody alleged “Junior,” and his son, Billy, took over in 1984. Three generations. Approaching a aeon of commitment, adamantine work, dedication, and service.
There has been a affiliate of the Fokakis ancestors manning the barbecue at the Coney Island Café aback Calvin Coolidge was in the White House.
Billy hasn’t absent a day of assignment aback he took over the business. Not one. 33 years. 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. Every day. He already appointed anaplasty on a Friday afternoon, so he could be aback to assignment on Monday. He was.
Restaurants accept souls. They ascertain a town, and acquaint the adventure of that abode and its people.
Some restaurants booty on the personality of their owner, some booty on the aggregate personality of the staff. Still others accept the characteristics of their barter or the boondocks itself. The Coney Island Café is a little bit of all that captivated up in a baby dining allowance abounding with stools, booths, and memories.
The Coney apparently won’t anytime win a James Beard award, or get appropriate acceptance in any of the civic comestible trades. But it has done so abundant more. It has fed all of the bodies of a boondocks — black, white, young, old, rich, poor, local, day-tripper — for about 100 years — a accomplishment that can’t be abstinent by ribbons and trophies, or accolades.
The Coney Island Café has survived a apple war, a abundant depression, and dozens of recessions. It was there in the aboriginal canicule aback city Hattiesburg grew and thrived. It never wavered aback those businesses confused abroad to accessible agleam new food in sprawling malls and band centers. It captivated close during the white flight of the 1980s, and was still continuing aback downtown’s face-lifting and renaissance began in the backward 1990s.
I ate at the Coney Island Café as a kid. My ancestor brought me there. His ancestor brought him there. I accompany my son there. I achievement that he’ll do the same.
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Detroit's Coney Dogs, Explained by People Who Make Them - Thrillist | coney dogs near meThe Coney Island Café is a survivor.
Robert St. John is a restaurateur, chef and author. Visit him online at robertstjohn.com. Follow him on Twitter @robertstjohn.
2 quarts water
2 quarts craven broth
1 ample carrot, bald and cut into ample pieces
1 ample onion, bald and cut into ample pieces
1 axis celery, bald and cut into ample pieces
1 Bay leaf
1 tablespoon salt
2 to 3 pounds chicken, whole
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Simply Scratch Detroit Style Coney Dogs - Simply Scratch | coney dogs near mePlace all capacity in a ample stockpot and simmer for two hours. Gently abolish chicken, air-conditioned and aces the meat from the carcass. Cut into bite-size pieces and set aside. Strain the craven borsch and acknowledgment to a ample saucepot.
3 cups flour
1 tablespoon banty seasoning
¾ cup Crisco
¾ cup algid milk
Combine abrade and seasoning. Use a angle to cut the abridgement into the acclimatized flour. Add algid milk and mix until a brawl forms. Abode chef on a floured apparent and aerate it for bristles minutes. Divide chef into two parts. On a abundantly floured surface, cycle chef to ⅛-inch thickness. Cut dumplings into one-inch squares and baptize with abrade to anticipate afraid while you cycle out actual dough. Abode dumplings in refrigerator and echo the action with the added bisected of the dough.
Reheat craven borsch on high, to a accelerated boil. Quickly bead dumplings in borsch (make abiding they are afar to anticipate them from clumping). Already borsch allotment to a boil, lower calefaction and simmer for 10 minutes. Add adapted craven into pot and simmer for 10 added minutes. Abolish from calefaction and acquiesce the admixture to blow for 15 account afore serving.
Yield: 8-10 servings
Read or Share this story: http://www.clarionledger.com/story/magnolia/taste/2017/10/15/restaurants-tell-stories-coney-island-cafe/752015001/
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